Malcolm McLaren & Vivienne Isabel Swire-Westwood: Founders
PROVOCATIVE / ROMANTIC FLOURISHES / REBELLIOUS
Origin: London, United Kingdom
One of the biggest names in British fashion
Dame Vivienne Westwood was one of Britain’s most celebrated fashion Designers. Westwood came to public notice when she made clothes for the boutique that she and Malcolm McLaren ran on King’s Road, which became known as “Sex”. They rose to prominence in the 1970’s, outfitting many bands of the era, most notably the Sex Pistols.
Vivienne’s provocative and sometimes controversial designs came to define the punk aesthetic. From the 1980’s onwards, Westwood became one of the biggest names in British fashion, blending historical references, classic tailoring and romantic flourishes with political messages.
In 1988, Vivienne Westwood met Andreas Kronthaler when she arrived to teach at the university in his first year. During the year, Kronthaler created a series of dresses inspired by the Renaissance. Kronthaler stayed with Vivienne Westwood where his role progressed and grew, collaborating and working with Westwood to develop subsequent collections.
In 1988, Vivienne Westwood met Andreas Kronthaler when she arrived to teach at the university in his first year. During the year, Kronthaler created a series of dresses inspired by the Renaissance. The dresses were over-long and round, and by adding a belt, they could be worn in countless ways. In 1989, Kronthaler traveled to London at Westwood’s invitation to work on this system. There, he collaborated with Westwood on her collection and also used this opportunity to improve the dresses’ designs. Eventually utilised in the same season as Westwood’s collection, these gowns were dubbed “sun-wheel dresses.” After that, Kronthaler continued to work for Vivienne Westwood.
“The sexiest people are thinkers”
In 1933, Andreas Kronthaler and Vivienne Westwood got married. Although Kronthaler has opted for a more private role and being a silent partner, their collaboration is one of the strongest in the fashion industry. Whereas Westwood was unconventional and provocative, Kronthaler was motivated by quality and advancement.
Andreas Kronthaler became Creative Director of Vivienne Westwood. In 2016, the company underwent restructuring, announcing that only Vivienne Westwood’s main line and Gold Label would continue production, with Gold Label being renamed as Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood to reflect Kronthaler’s influence on the line.
Since Westwood’s passing, the brand’s now-solo creative director has unveiled two collections in Paris; the most recent spring/summer 24 collection drew influence from his wife’s personal wardrobe. Kronthaler claimed to have taken pictures of almost 200 of Westwood’s ensembles, put them all in a hat, and selected 34 “because those are the years I knew Vivienne.” The piece is titled “43 Old Town” after the couple’s home.
