Luca

Kemkes

in CONVERSATION

Q. What’s your morning ritual?

Every morning I cycle to the office accompanied by my brother. Usually rushing, so coffee is a very important key to my mornings.

Q. Who are you and what is your profession?

I am Luca and I am a menswear designer.

Q. Talk to us about your background?

I am born in Amsterdam, a place that inspires me every day. I get a lot of inspiration from the city, especially the outskirts of it.

Q. What’s the story behind your most recent collection?

My latest collection is called ‘ A Bed Collection ‘ and is made out of second hand beds, mostly collected from second hand stores in Amsterdam.

The fabrics usually already have beautiful treatments and embellishment on it, and it clashes perfectly with the more rough silhouette of streetwear. Normally techniques such as quilting or embroidery are used in classic patterns such as flowers, so I decided to shake it up by quilt- ing patterns of sportswear logo’s instead.

People think working sustainable is challenging, but it really worked out beautifully for this collection. Due to the fact that each fabric is unique and very limited, you learn how to use them the most effec- tively, using no waste patterns and patch working techniques in order to get the most out of the fabrics without any waste.

Q. What is your view on sustainability outside fashion?

My parents didn’t own a car when I was younger due to the fact it was bad for the environment. I always thought it was a bit exaggerated and that one car less wouldn’t make a difference. However, looking at fashion and all the waste and damage caused, it really made me realise that sustainability is something we should all care about. Even little changes, such as one car less on the road, makes a difference. We should all give a better example of the execution of sustainability in our lives and spread the positivity around this subject.

Q. Why did you chose to become a designer is this something you already wanted to do from a young age?

Yes, ever since I was a little kid I used to cut and make clothes. Growing up, I knew that I wanted to design fashion. When I was in elementary school, my parents bought me second hand sewing machine. I still use it to this day! Everything that I’ve made so far has been made on that machine, so that’s quite cool. When I got older I considered studying something different and going to a regular university. Everything changed when I visited Morocco with my parents. We went to these markets displaying loads of unique fabrics, and I just knew that I couldn’t leave fabrics alone.

Q. What do you enjoy most about designing a collection?

I take a lot of joy from the moment I find a beautiful material, and immediately start thinking how it can work in certain silhouettes. It’s like a little explosion in my head, allowing me to totally envision the design. I try to immediately realise the design, since I can’t wait to see it coming to life.

Q. Do you still look at fashion for inspiration?

Definitely, I mostly get inspired by men on the street. I find it interesting to see how someone combines culture with streetwear.

Q. Are there any designers / movements in particular you are interested in?

I am super excited that the fashion industry finally realises that we all need to stop and reflect on our toxic habits. We need more inclusivity and leaders that really push the topic of sustainability.

Robyn Lynch is currently my favourite designer. She used surplus materials and creates beautiful things out of it.

Q. What are you currently working on?

At the moment I am experimenting with other second hand household materials like carpets to use for my next collections.

Q. Why mens fashion?

It’s funny because it comes so natural to me that I sometimes forget that it’s quite special that I do menswear, until someone reminds me of it by asking why. I just love the fact that menswear classics can be reinvented over and over again. Menswear has a rich history of workwear, sportswear and tailoring, so it means you have endless inspiration. The boxy oversized streetwear fits are a great canvas to experiment on with rich fabrics and unusual materials.

Q. Do you wear a lot of menswear yourself?

Yes, definitely. I think at least half of my closest consist of menswear. It is just so comfortable.

Q. As a designer what garment is key to your personal style?

Tracksuits for sure, they’re one of my favourite classics. Every time I experiment and execute them in new materials, they get their own unique outcome.

Q. How many tracksuits do you have in your wardrobe?

5, my favourite is my Ajax tracksuit.

Q. Do you know where your love for tracksuits comes from. Is it something from your youth, or something you picked up from a specific person?

To me it’s such an iconic style living it’s way through history. You will find examples within football, hiphop, gabber culture and the maffia. Each form of tracksuit symbolise a different aspect of subcultures. During quarantine I watched all the episodes of the show : ‘’ This is England ‘’ together with my boyfriend. There are amazing tracksuits displayed there!

Q. Any hidden talents?

Baking Cookies.

Q. Whats your signature cookie?

Chocolate chip cookies.

Q. Could you share you recipe with us.

Of course I can share the recipe.

Ingredients.

- 250 gram of flour
- Table spoon of baking powder
- Table spoon of salt
- 125 gram of butter
- 100 gram of sugar
- 80 gram of light brown sugar
- 1 table spoon of vanilla extract or even better fresh vanilla bean - 1 big egg
- Lots of chocolate chunks white, milk and pure

Method.

- Preheat the oven on 190 degrees
- Mix the butter, sugar and vanilla together. Then add the egg
- Mix the floor, baking powder and salt together and slowly add to the wet mixture
- Then in the end add the chocolate chunks
- If you in a hurry just put it all on a baking tray, bake for about 10 minutes and then cut in to pieces
- Important to not bake it for to long so the cookies stay soft in the middle

Q. What are you most looking forward to right now?

Displaying how sustainability can be an important and beautiful asset to streetwear.

Also, being able to go to festivals would be great again!

Q. Best piece of advice given.
I have never done it before, so I think I can do it.